Review: Switch

April 2, 2009
Yesterday afternoon, I was told that Wynn and Encore were offering special menus. I looked them over and I was interested in Stratta and Switch. I sent an email to Frank and to my surprise he suggested we make a reservation. We celebrated our anniversary over the weekend, I intended to make Gouda pork chops and Brussel sprouts for dinner. But how could I argue? We opted to try Switch.

Our reservation was for 6:30, there were only a few diners at the time. Frank checked his suit coat with the hostess. We were seated on the lower level beside one of the moving walls. The first theme of the night reminded us of Mexico. The stone and colors had a Mayan feel, we really liked it. We told the waiter we'd be have the Taste of Wynn menu. We made our selections, and we were left to enjoy the show. The switch was about to begin. Two walls completely move, the third has framed areas that change and the ceiling morphs, too. The newest look was Parisian, music was now in French.

We snacked on bread while we waited for our first course. There were two types: a french baguette and a cranberry nut roll. Both were good, the texture of the roll was great, I usually dislike cranberries but I didn't mind them here.

We started with a Caesar salad and lobster bisque. No spoon was delivered, so I had to wait to dig in. The bisque was very good, although, it seems I haven't acquired the taste for lobster. It was tender and they best I've had to date, but I fail to see the allure. The Caesar was loaded with dressing, but the romaine remained crisp. Frank and I switched - har - midway so we could each sample both dishes.

We ordered the chicken and the flat iron steak. The chicken was roasted with black truffles beneath the skin. It was nicely presented and well prepared, but it was underwhelming. The organic chicken at Nobhill outshines this dish. The steak was tender, the bordelaise sauce was excellent. The cut of meat isn't our favorite but it was good. Again, it was well done, but lacked any wow factor. Neither left us wanting more or intriqued to try other menu items.

The next switch took place. The exterior walls were removed; providing an outdoor feel. The ceiling grew taller. Sinatra played over the speakers. It had a traditional Vegas restaurant feel.

The dining room really began to fill and service slacked off. We had a long wait for dessert. We each chose the Milk Chocolate Crunch Bar. Dessert was good. I liked the hazelnut. Once again nothing mind blowing.

While we waited for our check the dining room switched again, this time back to the orginal theme. It took far too long for our check. We hate being held hostage. When Frank was ready to speak to someone, the waiter finally appeared, our total bill was $137. He gave the waiter his receipt to retrieve his checked coat. I thought we'd be waiting ages, but he brought it up within a few minutes.

The experience was fine. No major complaint, aside from slow service. However, given the average food, the novelty of the switch isn't enough warrant a return visit.

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