August 6, 2015


I've been thrilled with the life that's been brought downtown beyond the Fremont Street Canopy. All the new bars and restaurants are such a welcome addition. Glutton is new to the neighborhood, it sits kitty-corner from Eat. We were eager to give it a try. The name speaks to me. We dined for dinner, no reservation and no wait. There were only a few tables occupied on our visit. Cute space. Service was warm and welcoming. Plates are small and intended for sharing. We ordered a few to start and figured we'd delve deeper into the menu as needed.

They have a pretty good beer selection. I'm always pleased when I find Deschuetes Fresh Squeezed IPA ($7). It was a short wait for our first dish, which was the Brown Butter Gnocchi ($16). It was the most hearty of the three ordered. I didn't expect it first, but we didn't mind digging in. The sum of its parts were good, but it fell a bit flat. Underseasoned and the gnocchi were a bit doughy.

We were served the Buffalo Sweetbreads ($12) next. These were flavorful and a playful twist, but it left me wishing the sweetbreads were chicken. The hot sauce was a distraction from everything I love about sweetbreads. The delicate sweet creaminess was completely lost.

The last dish to arrive was the Truffle Gougeres ($8). I was anticipating airy bites with gooey truffle cheese centers. They were gooey, but not so airy and just a hint of truffle was noted. The dough was so bland. It was in desperate need of salt. It was a let down.

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Three strikes and we were out of there. I really wanted to like Glutton. On the surface, it seemed like a winner, but when it came down to execution it missed the mark. I was rather bummed, I had hoped for more. Especially at that price point. It's a shame too, because the menu is intriguing. I hear brunch is good; perhaps, that's the better choice?

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