March 5, 2019

Cheerio!

Ready to chew the fat? I am dishing about my travels to London in Fall (November, 2018) and Winter (Feb, 2019). This will take a bit so get cosy.

First of all, flying Norwegian is by far the cheapest option to London. Economy flights start around $175 for one way fares. The airline is timely and it covers all the necessities. I also flew West Jet on my first trip across the pond. It was more attentive and comfortable. However, you cannot beat the convenience of Norwegian's non stop flight LAS-LGW. However, the West Jet layover in Calgary was minor so it's not a bad alternative. British Airways is another option, but it is much more expensive.

My first impression of London accommodations was the Royal Horseguards. It's a bit of a splurge but the location is quite nice and I'm still dreaming of the heated floors. While it had its perks I'm not enticed to repeat a stay. I would, however, return to our hotel in Vaux Hall, Staybridge Suites. It's a bit out of the way but perfectly accessible to all the attractions via the Tube. The neighborhood is cozy, mostly residential with some nice pubs like the Black Dog. I rather enjoyed it. The room suited our needs just fine and the convenience of self serve laundry was especially desirable.

Around the block, at the Rose Pub, I sampled the classic staple, fish and chips.



Of course we didn't discover it until our final night, but there was a small pub under the tracks near the Vaux Hall station named Mother Kelly's. We really enjoyed the selection and the vibe.



This most recent trip, however, we stayed at Citizen M London Tower. It made the most sense since Frank was visiting for a convention and the hotel is literally above the underground and it allowed the most direct route. While still connecting me to the most lively parts of the city. The room itself left much to be desired. It was extremely close for comfort. Although, I did enjoy the roof top bar. It was a nice way to unwind with a nightcap and take in the city lights high above it all.





My first visit I took time to see all the most popular sites. I repeated some favorites and explored areas missed previously upon my return. Big Ben was undergoing renovations on both trips so it seems I'll save that icon for a future visit.





















My preference is to wander the city by getting lost in its streets. Exploring each neighborhood led by the coordinating underground stop. The multi-day pass or Oyster Card is the best way to get around. Driving takes longer than walking to most destinations so Taxi/Uber are only viable options with luggage or wee hours in the morning when traffic finally improves. The Underground is so vast it gets you anywhere you need to be.





Notting Hill is a fun neighborhood to wander. Between Portabello Road market & antiques and all the pretty ladies in row - there is much to discover.











Hammersmith is a bit out of the way, but it is my preferred neighborhood. Dartmouth Castle has particularly delicious bangers and mash, ciders and honestly, nothing is bad here. We ate here a few times and we always walked away satisfied and jubilant.



Mothers Mash in SoHo is another I found worth repeating.



However, the single best highlight is the Indian Food. Curry is the national dish for good reason. Dishoom receives the most fanfare. We waited about 30 minutes for a table in Covent Gardens.




However, my favorite is Veraswamy. Frank completely agrees. Frankly, it has been his favorite part of London and our recent travels to Europe. The business lunch is truly outstanding. Make a reservation, you will not regret it. We returned again and again.




I learned that I do not fancy an English breakfast. We ate at Kennington Lane, which comes highly recommended. However, the blood sausage, beans and runny eggs are just not to my liking. And the bacon, is nothing more than a slab of ham. At least, the single sausage got me through until my next meal.



Turkish Bakery's were a new treat. At least to me. The simit is bagel like served with feta and tomato. Perfect for take away, midday snack or when breakfast is a bust.



A large group of us had dinner at Quaglinos. Tasty bites and live entertainment. It was a bit too loud and service was sluggish. I've learned that I'm positively spoiled by the level of service and attentiveness received in the states, particularly in Las Vegas. There is just no comparison.

Coming from a city with no last call. Late night is always an adjustment. In London options were pretty well limited to private social clubs. We were fortunate to experience this nightlife as invited guests. Members pay a monthly fee for the privilege to wine and dine into the wee hours. Otherwise, you're left with pubs that literally spill into the streets and they are far too crowded to enjoy. At least, in my opinion. Maybe I am biased since the outdoor urinals do not benefit me.

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One exception is Duke's Bar. Sir Ian Fleming’s chosen watering hole. This is where “shaken, not stirred” was born. The appropriately dressed public is welcome; first come, first served at this iconic Martini lounge. It is what inspired the character we know and love as Bond. James, Bond. The martinis are great - the dirtier the better. However, the shining star. At least in my world was the Bullshot. Think bloody mary without the tomato juice. Instead, replace the juice with beef consomm√©. All the savory boozy gloriousness without the acidity. I met my match. I fell deeper in awe with each perfectly cured olive and salty sesame cheese crisp. Yes, I am a fan of their bar snacks.



Another favorite hang out was the Wellesley in the Knightsbridge neighborhood. They have an superb cigar lounge that offers a great cocktail menu. You certainly pay for the luxury, but it is an experience.



Theater is big business in London and it should not be missed. We saw "Everyone's Talking about Jaime" on the first trip, and I saw "Home, I'm Darling" most recently. The former was a bit more fun, but both are entertaining and put on by a talented cast.





No trip is complete without a visit to the local market. If I am not mistaken the Borough Street market is London's most popular.







The sheer volume of shopping is impressive. London especially around SoHo, Picadilly and Oxford Circus it put the states to shame. The shops go on for miles and miles. Anything you've ever heard of and even more you have not can be found Fashion Show Mall on Las Vegas Blvd, Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills or the Miracle Mile in Chicago are nothing to squawk at, but they felt like small blips by comparison. I've never experienced this level of consumerism. It was next level on my trip in November. I'd be curious how the holiday shopping numbers compare. It was quite calm this trip, the hoards of shoppers were replaced by construction crews. The streets, sidewalks and buildings were all undergoing renovation and/or repair.



London in the fall is a spectacular display of color. We experienced more sun than rain, though we still got good use of our umbrellas. Winter is mostly rain showers, a bit bleak and frigid wind. It didn't stop me from exploring. Admittedly it wasn't as enjoyable as last trips wanderings.







What I love most about London is the old and modern architecture. You have splendidly old attractions and skyscrapers offering the latest and greatest. And a bit of everything in between.



The best views are from atop the Tate Modern Museum. You can gain entry for free. Special exhibits have an admission fee. The artwork and installations are worth the visit alone. I didn't even know about the bar and viewing area until checking the map inside the museum. I couldn't have had better timing. The light before sundown was beautiful.











London was never high on my Wanderlust list. However, I am so grateful for these opportunities that have allowed me to explore this capital city of the UK.

2 comments:

Jay said...

Ok, first, I need to slow down and read through the post and take in all of the pictures. But when scrolling through quickly, I couldn't help but notice Frank in the Frank(furt) pic. Has he lost weight or are my eyes deceiving me? He looked like a machine in that pic - all ready to take on Germany.

Looking forward to finding the time later to slow down and read through this delicious looking post. Thanks yet again for sharing!

Kellee said...

You are not mistaken. He has lost 100+ & healthier than ever. The photo is from the Picadilly Station of London's Underground. It is an art installation recognizing Frank Pick who played a big role in how the underground looks and feels today.