A Look at Louisville

It took us far too long to visit my brother-in-law in Louisville, he used to live near the university, but now lives outside the city in LaGrange on a five acre lot. He and his partner have been renovating their cape cod with many upgrades; it’s really coming together nicely. They have two dogs, a cat and slew of chickens to keep them company. Fresh eggs, is there anything better? They have a huge garden too, but it's currently covered with layers of ice and snow.

It was mighty cold during our stay. We managed to keep warm while seeing the sights (we did a lot of drive bys), but we’ll definitely have to return during the spring or fall for a closer look. The budding trees and green grass on the rolling hills must be picturesque. I’m sure the fall foliage is breathtaking, as well. Instead, I was greeted by icicles so big they could impale bigfoot. The forests were bare but dripped ice, many branches cracked under pressure. Landscapers and tree trimmers will certainly have a busy season once the city thaws, but I digress.



Bob and Hugh, led us around town, and introduced us to their favorite haunts; we had such an enjoyable visit. To be honest, I didn’t expect much from Louisville. I knew little about it… it’s home to Louisville Slugger, the Derby and bourbon distilleries. What I learned is that it is booming city with loads of charm. I found that entrepreneurial spirit is alive and well, and there are some real culinary delights too.

Our first dinner downtown in NuLu was my favorite. We met his friends at Harvest and the six of us had a feast. This restaurant is deeply rooted in the farm to table movement. So much so that the walls are adorned with photographs of farmers; and a map of locally sourced farms dresses the back wall. From my first sip of beer from Country Boy brewing (Lexington, KY) I knew I was in for a treat. We started with a meat and cheese board ($13) and beer cheese with pretzel baguette ($8). It was one delicious bite after another. If I had to choose, the pimento cheese was my favorite.



Everything was so good; I was stoked for our main course. I chose the pork confit, with jalapeno-bacon grits, and fried okra ($20). I can’t recall a more succulent bite of pork. And I never had grits like these, they were fantastic. I even liked the fried okra, lightly breaded and crisp without a hint of grease. Outstanding, really. Frank had the evening's steak special which was prepared to perfection. Around the table, only praises were sung for the bbq board ($26), shrimp and grits ($16), and buttermilk fried chicken ($20). I have no doubt desserts would have been stellar, too, if only we had saved room. I suspect magic happens there nightly. A return visit will be a must next time I am in town.



The following day, we had lunch at the Vietnam Kitchen. The menu is extensive and it receives much praise. We were a bit disappointed by our selections, but we may have chose poorly. The pork & shrimp Goi Cuon ($3.75) wrappers were very chewy. I prefer a fresh tender bite. Frank ordered the K6 Hu Tieu Cay Trieu Chau ($9.15) which is a bowl of flat noodles in a spicy broth. The broth was very good but the noodles were so chewy, I couldn’t tell if they were over or under cooked. It was practically inedible. I tried K11 Hu Tieu Xao Ga ($9.70) which was so similar to Pad Thai but without the complexity, nor the sweet heat that I adore. I was left wanting so much more. Bob and Hugh were satisfied with their usual choice of J7 Bun Thit Nuong Cha Gio ($8.55) and N4 Thit Ko Tieu/Xuon Ram ($11.35). Although, the clay pot took an extremely long time to prepare, we were nearly through with our meal by the time Hugh received his.



Afterwards, we went downtown to the Frazier History Museum. First, we passed through the Louisville Slugger Museum where the scent of wood and lacquer are strong. Frank took the tour the day before I arrived. He gave me the cliffnotes. Napoleon was the special exhibit at the Frazier. I enjoyed the collection more than I expected. On the lower floors there are vast collections of guns, swords, armor and medieval weapons. To be honest, it failed to keep my interest. After the first hundred weapons, I grew weary. I wish there were more interactive exhibits. The few they had were interesting. I cannot say it’s a must see unless you have a deep appreciation for US and UK weaponry. It did provide nice way to pass time while keeping warm during this frigid spell.



There are several antique stores in the area, we stopped at the Crazy Daisy. It was fun to step back in time. I spotted so many items that brought me back to my childhood, many items were replicas of pieces my grandparent’s owned. Sure, there’s lots of junk, but you must remember one person’s junk is another’s treasure. I was impressed to see such a collection of Las Vegas memorabilia ashtrays, glassware, etc.



Somehow I left these gems behind.



I had one place on my list that was a must see, that was the Holy Grale. Beer from all over the world is currently being worshiped in the former Unitarian Church. It’s quaint and cozy, and seating is limited. We managed to secure a table and we immediately got started quenching our thirst. I had an aged beer from Belgium that reminded me a bit of sours I’ve tasted lately. Frank struck gold with Konig Ludwig on tap. The men’s bathroom is a real hoot, with a dozen versions of the last supper (Frank took a photo of his favorite, the poker game).



When hunger struck we went to Rye for dinner. We practically had the place to ourselves and we nearly ordered every item on their limited menu. We started with the meat ($15) and cheese plate ($15), which offered a selection of pork, cow, sheep and goat cheeses.



I couldn’t resist the Bone-in Berkshire Pork Chop with chestnut confit and sweet potato ($35), Frank and Bob both selected the steak ($30) from the menu and Hugh had the lobster bisque ($10). We could not choose from the side selections so we had one of each: Butternut Gratin ($8), Triple Cooked Fries ($6) and Korean Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($8) and a concoction of beans that I don’t quite recall.

Everything was nicely executed. The chop was one of the best I’ve eaten, and Frank thoroughly enjoyed his steak. The favorite side was the butternut gratin. It was so comforting, perfect for a cold winter night.



We grabbed dessert elsewhere at Ghyslain. These are some high end chocolates and desserts that are being crafted in NuLu. We each selected a pastry that was nearly too beautiful to eat. Yet, we enjoyed every decadent bite. It certainly made our dreams sweet that night.

You have probably sensed that I have a great fondness for beer, but you might not know that I really haven’t acquired a taste for liquor. I don’t represent my Scottish or Irish roots well; I haven’t found a whisky (or whiskey) I like, despite many tries. I never had bourbon before so I thought it may change my mind. We drove out to Loretto, KY to visit the Maker’s Mark Distillery. It was a slow day, I guess most people aren't eager to trudge through the ice and snow for a visit, but it was to our benefit. We had a private tour. Our guide was a wealth of knowledge. We received an education on its history and the distillery process. Then, we were rewarded for our efforts with a tasting, before heading into the gift shop where Frank dipped his very own bottle. The verdict? Frank has a new favorite drink. I don’t like Bourbon any more than Whisky (or Whiskey). But Maker’s Mark Bourbon Balls are tasty. I guess the chocolate hides that blast of fire bitterness I can’t get past.

They've really taken great care to preserve Maker's Mark history. They are still making small batches, dipping each bottle by hand and die cutting all labels just like it was done in its infancy. The grounds have hardly changed over the years. Even the kitchen is a step back in time.



The tour begins in the still house, you can smell corn, wheat and barley in the air. Maker's Mark does not use rye, instead red winter wheat is used.



The magic happens when the yellow mash ferments in huge cypress vats. We were able to sample the mash, think oatmeal prepared with beer. It was interesting to see it in its various stages.



Once the still separates the whisky, it is place in charred oak barrels for aging. The storage room is dark and cold, but it has a pleasant scent. The barrels are rotated from upper levels to lower levels over a three year period. There is no set time for the aging process. Samples are periodically taken from the barrels, they are pulled when they reach the appropriate taste. Maker's 46 goes through an additional step, charred planks are added to the barrels to impart a spice flavor. This takes about an additional nine weeks.



When the barrel reaches maturity the bottling process begins. Maker's 46 was being bottled during our visit; it is only produced in the winter months.



The neck's of the bottles are hand dipped in sealing wax on the line and then boxed for transport.



Finally, we are led to the tasting room. Where four tastings have been prepared: the white allows you to see and taste how the barrel influences the color and taste during the aging process. It's terrible, it tastes like grain alcohol. The fully matured Maker's Mark is world's better, but I still felt like I had kissed a fire breathing dragon. The over matured Maker's mark smells wonderful, but it is offensively bitter. Aging definitely has a best by date. The final sample is Maker's 46. Some prefer it, because of its spicy notes, but we agreed the original is best.



Our last stop was the gift shop. As previously mentioned, Frank purchased a bottle of Maker's Mark that he was able to personally dip.



Maker's Mark distillery is only one stop on the bourbon trail. I hope to see others in the future.

That night we had dinner at Hammerheads. It was Frank's second visit, I had heard all about it, but I was unable to picture the drab basement serving up incredible eats. You might think you're in the wrong place when your GPS leads you to a house in this Germantown neighborhood, but once you spot the hammerhead you'll know you've arrived. The scent of smoke that permeates the air will be your second clue, and if it's later in the evening you'll surely be met by a large crowd.

Upon viewing the menu, I noticed that meat dominates and prices are fair. Once I laid eyes on duck tacos ($12) there was no question what I would be having. Frank loved the lamb ribs last visit, but wanted to try something new. He had nearly decided on pulled pork but he was swayed to try the baby back ribs ($22) when our waiter mentioned that they were his favorite. Bob and Hugh chose the angus ($8) and elk ($12) burgers. We ordered duck sliders ($4 ea), and mac and cheese balls ($7) to start. We shared grippo fries ($4) in duck fat ($3).



The ribs were the best we've had outside of Texas. They were mighty delicious. The duck tacos did not disappoint. The sliders were weak, but it was no fault of the duck. It was the bun that was the culprit. The mac and cheese was creamy and smoky. The hollandaise didn't woo me so I wished I had ordered the side instead... Lessons for next time. The fries were seasoned with a sweet spicy BBQ seasoning. They were good, but I suspect I might like the truffle fries better. Overall, I was pleased by the quality of food. You wouldn't expect it from its divey appearance.

On our final day, Frank had flight out (PHL) at 7 o'clock in the morning. We woke long before the sun was up to take him to the airport (2AM PST), said farewell and returned to Bob's and eagerly awaited the city to wake. He took me on a tour of the Highlands and Old Louisville. If you like old homes and beautiful architecture, these neighborhoods can't be missed. Treelined streets are littered with a blend of Victorian and Colonial homes and mansions. These areas ooze character, many homes look just as they did over a hundred years ago.

The Highlands was where I'd spend most of my time if I lived in Louisville. On a 3.2 mile stretch of road there is an eclectic mix of locally owned resturants, shops, and bars. Anything you need can be found here (except maybe parking). Here, you'll also find Cave Hill Cemetary and arboretum. It is the final resting place for Col. Harland Sanders. I only rode by (it was 4 degrees), but Frank visited his grave. Next trip, I'd like to stroll around and see the lovely variety of trees thrive.



Bob and I had lunch at hillbilly tea which is located in the heart of Louisville. The dining area is darling, exposed brick, reclaimeed woods... very rustic chic. Menus are printed on burlap. The tea selection is extensive, but the lunch options are limited. Choices were extremely limited on our visit since they were out or awaiting shipment on half the menu. Bob had the ribeye special ($15) and I went with the hillbilly standard ($12). Which is chicken salad on corn bread, braised greens and grilled bread and cookie. We also ordered a side of hillbilly mac n cheese ($3). Little did we know the ribeye special also came with it.



The chicken salad was very good, the corn bread wasn't bad. The niceties end there. The grilled bread seemed two or three days old. It was inedible. Half of the greens were decent and edible, those that remained we too tough to chew. The cookies were dry and bland. I honestly couldn't detect a single flavor. The mac n cheese had no macaroni just chopped cauliflower in a cheese sauce. The ribeye was not a quality piece of meat. At least we enjoyed the chai ($5.50) and iced ($3.25) teas. Drinks were large, but portions were small. I'd wouldn't expect to leave a $40 lunch hungry, but I did.

All was not lost, however, Bob took me to his favorite coffee shop, Please & Thank You. I filled up on the most delicious chocolate chip cookies before heading home. It's a super cute relaxed coffee shop that plays records. I have a soft spot for records, music has never sounded as good as on vinyl.

Said and done, Louisville has ideal location on the banks of the Ohio River Valley, they have four seasons and it's affordable. I understand why many call it home. Next visit, I'd like to see a few of the 120 parks in the area. Maybe I'll even try a Hot Brown, Derby Pie or Mint Julep.

With any luck this will be my last look at snow for a very long time.



As much as I love traveling, I'm reminded that there is no place like home.

Sunday Fun day!

Yes, it was Louisville I visited last week. But before I tell you about that trip, can I just say we had the most glorious weather here in Sin City over the weekend. It was bitterly cold in Louisville, so I was quite pleased to feel the warmth of home when I returned. Unfortunately, Frank is suffering on the east coast for a bit longer. So far this month, he's weathered sub zero temperatures and blizzards in Chicago, an ice storm and snow in Louisville and two nor'easters in Atlantic City. He doesn't come home til Saturday so who knows what else is in store. While he's been freezing in six states (IL, IN, KY, PA, NJ, NY... for those keeping count) I've been enjoying our mild winter. It's been dry and warm. Not quite as much sunshine as I'd like but I'll take a few overcast days over the cold. Who wouldn't? But this Sunday was simply sublime. It was the most perfect day. Sunny, blue skies and a high of 81.

I knew I wanted to be outside. My initial thought was a trip to Town Square, but the car steered northbound on I-15 long after the exit. The Container Park was my destination. I so greatly anticipated its completion, I'm ashamed it has taken me this long to experience it. My excuse is that its been cold and I'm a wuss. Friends and family have been and I've read the articles that say despite the neat concept businesses inside have had their share of struggles.



Not this day. There wasn't a shop, eatery or bar without a crowd. There were families, locals and travelers from all over savoring their day at the Container Park. The only struggle I witnessed was navigating the crowds and locating the elevators. I preferred the stairs, but many with strollers were seeking rides. I looked around and it was fun for all ages. And not a wager in sight. It was refreshing.



I've seen shipping containers used in Austin. I knew, then, how neat of a concept it was, but actually seeing the Container Park? It was so much more imaginative. It's a playground for kids of ages, or those young at heart. There's something for everyone. It's a great place to unwind and just be. I strolled from gallery to gallery. Names escape me. That's probably the biggest weakness no strong signage to announce where you're standing, but the wandering and meandering from level to level was playful. Similar to the kids running amok in the treehouse that serves as the centerpiece to the park.



This piece from Italy spoke to me, it is appropriately named Hungry.



In the back there's a stage which had live entertainment. The Janes were performing when I was there. A duo with nothing more than lovely vocals and cello performing cover songs. You've never heard Radiohead or Maroon 5 quite like this. The warm dry air left me parched so I stopped in the Boozery. I was pleased to see their strong support for local breweries, Tenaya Creek and Joseph James. I took a breather on the patio, enjoyed the tunes and soaked up that warm February sun. In that moment I thought, "this, right here, is why I left Chicago nearly eleven years ago", it could have only been sweeter if Frank was there to share it with me.

It is the perfect spot for spring and fall days, I suppose winter days in February too... and warm summer nights. I am interested to see what it's like after 9 o'clock when all the kiddies go to bed.

Where is the Container Park? Head east from Las Vegas Blvd and look for the preying mantis. Yes, the preying mantis.

Guess Where?

I'll tell you all about it next week!

Pam Real Thai

This Thai restaurant can easily be overlooked if it weren't for the grand opening banner which can be seen from driving NB on Decatur, north of Twain. It's what brought us in, my brother and I were surprised to find such a large cavernous space with only two other diners for lunch. I suppose it will take some time to get the word out. It took a few minutes for someone to seat us, but service was attentive after. We looked over the menu and saw no lunch specials, but menu items are reasonably priced. We ordered Pad Garlic Pepper and Beef ($6.95), Chicken Pad Thai ($6.95) and Garlic Fried Rice ($5.95). Fresh house salads with iceberg, cabbage, carrots and red onion drizzled with peanut sauce got us started and our entrees followed.



The garlic fried rice had bits of crispy fried garlic and the rice was tender and flavorful. I've never had a fried rice quite like it, it was very enjoyable. My interest is piqued by the other fried rice options. I'd return for this alone.

I chose 3 out of 4 for spiciness of the pad thai, it delivered a dish with a sweet heat (I'd say a 6 at Archi's is comparable). The flavors were complex and well balanced, if the noodles weren't so gummy and hard to chew it would easily be one of the better pad thai dishes in the valley. It was solid enough to try again in hopes for better noodles in the future.

The pad garlic pepper and beef was the weak link, it had a sour flavor that I found unpleasant, and many of the cuts of beef were tough or chewy.

For being so new, they seem to have their act together. In time, I believe those empty tables will fill.

It's 5 o'clock somewhere!

Last week, Margaritaville (Flamingo) extended an invite to check out their newly revamped menu. No need to worry, they're still serving up Volcano Nachos. However, they've refreshed the menu with tasty new bites, including Vegetarian and Gluten Free menu items. The atmosphere is as fun and carefree as ever.



Margaritaville has always had the best margaritas around, this evening we sampled a few varieties. Last Mango in Paris is a tart and slightly sweet blend of Mango Tequila, Cointreau and cranberry juice. This is a great choice on the rocks ($10.75). If you prefer to keep it sweet, try the Watermelon Margarita ($9.75). For the perfect blend of tart and sweet don't miss the Blueberry Pomegranate Margarita ($10.75). This is a crowd pleaser! This is the perfect cocktail for those hot Vegas summer nights.



We came hungry and it's a good thing too, our server brought us a feast to get started. We enjoyed an appetizer tasting of Grilled Shrimp Skewers ($5.99), White Cheddar Cheese Curds ($10.99), Drunken Shrimp Skillet ($13.99), Asiago Crab Dip ($13.99) and Beach Tacos ($9.99).



The shrimp skewers are perfectly grilled with jerk glaze. The cheese curds were highly addictive, but we pulled ourselves away to try the hot and bubbly crab dip, it was so rich, gooey and delicious. The tacos were well prepared and left us wanting more. The skillet had shrimp sauteed with tequila key lime butter, roasted garlic, onions and peppers. You'll find yourself fighting over the baguettes for dipping.

We could've made a meal on appetizers alone, but we still had the Cheeseburger in Paradise ($13.99), Volcano Burger ($14.99) and Fish Tacos ($17.99) to try.



An item to note with the handcrafted burgers is any beef patty can be substituted for a turkey or veggie burger. The cheeseburger is a classic with paradise island sauce. The star here is the Volcano Burger with chili lava sauce, pickled jalapenos guacamole and corn chips. This burger packs a bold punch. We had just returned from Albuquerque and we couldn't get over how much this tasted like Frito Pie. The fish tacos are fried crisp and flavorful from the Landshark beer batter. Just when we thought we could eat no more, the Chocolate Hurricane ($16.50) came.



This thing is a monster! It has everything great desserts are made of: decadent brownies dripping with vanilla ice cream, mountains of whipped cream, Kit Kat and Heath bar crumbles, pirouette and shortbread cookies, sliced banana and chopped macadamia nuts, and if that weren't enough, they top it with ribbons of chocolate and caramel sauces. It is served on a lazy susan so you can twirl it around to zero in on your favorite sweet treat.

Service was stellar throughout the meal and the entertainers kept the evening lively. With large portions and menu items made for sharing; it's such a great choice when gathering with friends.

Got Apps?

I've upgraded to a Samsung Galaxy S3. It might be old technology, but it is light years ahead of my old smartphone. I'm digging it. It's sleek, smooth and I adore the 4.8 HD screen. Photos are so vivid, they really pop. I've downloaded my favorite apps and I still have plenty of room for more.

I was curious if you have any app suggestions?

Eatin', Sleepin', Shoppin', Repeat'n in ABQ

While in Albuquerque, we finally understood Walt Jr.'s obsession with breakfast. Dozens of restaurants in ABQ are only open for breakfast and lunch. Dining options become far fewer after 4 o'clock. I don't quite understand why it is, but it's what we found. We also found mexican food in New Mexico, isn't really new or Mexican. One must also understand the difference between chile and chili. You're unlikely to find chili in New Mexico, but you will find they take their chile very seriously.

Anywhere you go, morning, noon or night, you'll be asked green or red. My opinion is that of many, green is always the right answer. The red just isn't that good, but if you insist, try Christmas, a combination of both. Both are hatch chiles, when they ripen they turn red. You might not expect much difference in taste, but there is. Green hatch chiles are bolder and more acidic. I found it similar to tomatillo based sauces. Maybe I just associate the flavor with green sauces, but hatch chiles have far more kick. Quite honestly the only difference my palette picked up from place to place was the heat. All tasted the same, most were medium, but The Doghouse was HOT. I love spicy, Frank does too and their sauce was almost too hot. Thankfully, he ordered a shake with our Frito Pie to neutralize the heat.

After a few mexican meals we decided we prefer influences from Baja and Yucatan regions. Much like Tex-Mex, and southwestern styles found in AZ, we didn't care for mexican food in Albuquerque. We threw in the towel, and tried alternative cuisine options.

The Grove is highly praised. But three out of four sandwiches were a flop. They are known to have the best cupcakes but ours were as dry as the Mojave. It was pretty pricey; a sandwich and drink run about $15. My Italian was devastatingly bad, the BLT and Beef sandwich were nothing to write home about, the winner was the grilled cheese with onions and green chile additions. The salads that accompanied the sandwiches were so earthy, it might as well had been dirt.



Frontier was another miss, despite its high ratings it fell flat. I tried the carne adovado burrito. I found it inedible, it tasted like chicken in tomato paste wrapped in the most floury taco shell in existence. I've had better microwave burritos. The green side of the Christmas enchilada was better. Breakfast and chicken sandwich were somewhat satisfying, and their famous cinnamon roll was more like a churro.



The Cube was infinately better, it was featured on Diners, Drive Ins and Dives. We came here after Frontier so I could eat. I ordered the brisket and pulled pork with mac n cheese and creamed corn ($13). The meats didn't have the smoke ring I like to see, but they were tender and went well with the bbq sauce at the table. I wasn't a fan of the mac, but I dug the creamed corn with a heavy helping of black pepper. Marble beers on tap made it all the better.



We also ate at The Range. We had breakfast ($52 for four), overall with the exception of burnt toast it was ok. I had the huevos rancheros, which they've been voted the best and while decent, they weren't even in the top three I've personally tried.

Regretfully, we also tried Kelly's Brewpub. We were starved and thought burgers might be a nice change from the Mexican and breakfast. Service was subpar. Conditions were dirty. We should've walked out, but we stayed and had nachos. Large portion but it was served cold with salsa, sour cream and guacamole in plastic tubs on the side. It was the first I ever encountered a guacamole paste. It was not good. Entrees were burgers (with moldly tomatoes). Drier than dry was the theme. Fries were cold. The highlight was the creamy green chile soup. I actually dunked my burger in it so I could choke it down. I wished I wasn't so hungry under ordinary circumstances I would've spoken to management. At this point, I felt defeated. I just wanted food in my belly and then I'd forget the whole dreadful experience ($65 for three, we sent one burger back).

The final day we ate at the Waffle House ($34 for four) near the hotel. None of us had ever been. It's basic, cheap, and fresh. Service was friendly and attentive. No complaints.

Other than the Chili Chocolate Bacon Donut ($1.59) from Rebel Donuts, my favorite ABQ eats were from the Dog House. We ate here twice. We tried to go the first day, but the kitchen was closed. We pulled in too late. This is a dive, but it's cheap and tasty. The Chile dogs are cut in half so they're pretty flat when served. It was good enough Frank ordered one twice. The Frito Pie pictured has easy chile and meat. It was the best way to keep from setting our tastebuds on fire. The nachos were ok, but the tater tots dipped in that cheese was mighty good. Processed foodie heaven, me thinks. We ordered an obscene amount of food (two burgers, fries and another order of tots not pictured) and drink for four and our bill was twenty six bucks.





We stayed at Best Western Inn & Suites near the airport. I booked on hotwire for $46 per night. Accomodations were clean and comfortable. Our room had a fridge and microwave too. The hotel offered continental breakfast and happy hour. Both seemed to be nice spreads.

There were two stores we had to check out while there, The Candy Lady and Guerilla Graphix. Both sell Breaking Bad goodies. The Candy Lady is known for making the blue meth as seen on the show. Dime bags are sold for a dollar. She also has stickers, postcards, pez dispensers, tshirts, magnets and keychains. We sampled some homemade candies but they weren't our favorite. The dark chocolate had something funky about it, it was an unusual bitter flavor. Prices are higher than at Guerilla Graphix, where you can find all the same merchandise except for the Pez and t-shirts. Although, they have their own clothing selection at Guerilla. We came to learn that Old Town had several souvenir stores with Breaking Bad paraphanelia for sale. We didn't stop in though by then time was limited.

I will say it was incredibly neat to see so many businesses embrace the city's Breaking Bad fame. It also gave us a deeper appreciation for the show to see the angles and tight spaces that crews had to work with, far more challenging that building a set... I'm sure.