Showing posts with label Baja Sur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Baja Sur. Show all posts
January 26, 2025
And just like that it is 2025
December 4, 2020
November 25, 2020
November 15, 2020
November 10, 2020
Baja Bound
We logged 1157 Miles in 18.5 hours on our drive from Las Vegas to La Paz. The drive to the border was the most agonizing. California had road construction that reduced traffic to one lane, we sat at a standstill multiple times waiting for our pilot car escort. It was a very slow start...
We made it to the border crossing outside Mexicali just before 2pm. It was a mighty good thing, too, little did we know the INM office closed at 2 o'clock. We assumed they kept the same hours as the crossing. We needed to pay for our FMM since we'd be staying longer than 7 days 575 pesos or $30 US. We were thankful we lucked out.
We were unsure of how to access the office from the left lanes (nothing to declare) so we instead entered right and were subject to search. Inspection was brief, and they kindly pointed out the proper set of doors for us to obtain our FMM when we questioned, "Donde es FMM?"
We basked in the moonlight on the roof top terrace, and then woke in enough time to watch the sunrise. Then, we headed out straight away. Our second day of driving was uncharted territory - to us, anyway. We heard the new highway made the drive easier, but we never imagined how nice it would be. Google didn't acknowledge the new route so we continuously shaved off minutes and eventually hours from our drive time. It was fantastic.
We crossed into Baja Sur way earlier than expected and we were delighted that we were able to arrive in Loreto well before sundown. So much so, we even considered making our way all the way to La Paz, but our favorite hotel HBlue was fully booked. We opted to take it as a sign to stay the night and finish the drive in the morning. I made a last minute reservation on booking.com for Hotel 1697. It was a cute boutique hotel with ideal location right near the plaza and walking distance to the malecon.
It was a much better experience than our last accommodations in Loreto. A couple years back, we stayed at Loreto Bay Golf Resort & Spa. On the surface it was nice enough, but in reality it was a bit of disaster. We made several room changes, the gamut included everything from finding crumbs in bed to an air conditioner that apparently identified as an ice maker... At 2AM it started spitting out ice cubes like it was happy hour.
We had dinner at Mi Loreto. We had both of the house specialties: mole and chile rellenos. Neither disappointed. The city was exceptionally quiet. Alcohol was only sold at a few places in attempts to keep crowds at a minimum, The usual cruise along the malecon was only a few cars. The precautions to minimize the spread of coronavirus is no different from upper to lower baja. To gain entry into any business: you must be masked, you step into disinfecting solution, hands are sanitized with antibacterial gel and your temperature is taken. I appreciate consistency in measures taken - It was so different last month when traveling around Southern California. Procedures varied widely between LA, Orange and San Diego counties. It grew tiresome to learn & adjust to each new drill.
Again, we were up at dawn and on the road shortly after. Frank was eager to arrive in La Paz before the NFL games kicked off. The rest of the drive was seamless and we easily coordinated meeting our property manager. We settled right into our new casa well before football was underway.
November 6, 2020
November 5, 2020
November 4, 2020
November 3, 2020
November 2, 2020
So... We did a thing.
We've talked about living abroad for ages. When Frank was cleared to work from home for the rest of the year we spotted an opportunity to snowbird in La Paz. It's felt most like home during our travels, after all. Plus, I've been telling Frank for what seems like years, now, that Vegas winters have gotten to be too cold for me... Well, the stars aligned, here we are, testing out life in Mexico for two months.
We'll return home after the new year. We rented an Airbnb a couple blocks off the malecon, we opted to drive our truck down, we left Las Vegas on Friday and arrived in La Paz before the NFL games kicked off on Sunday. Frank will take meetings as needed. I committed to no more than 20 hours per week for my consulting gig. My plan is to use the extra free time to improve my Spanish, focus on hobbies, get back into and form better habits. It is much needed; this year has been extremely hectic. It's often felt impossible to get it "all done" so I welcome this time to slow down.
Bear with me, as I learn to all the new updates blogger has made.
June 9, 2017
That Time We Picked Up Hitchhiker in Mexico
On our final day in Baja Sur, we drove from El Pescadero to San Jose del Cabo. The drive takes about 75 minutes via a toll road. Just before the toll booth there was a group outside their vehicle that flagged us down. A chinese man approached the window and spoke to us in spanish. I didn't understand more than his friend and the airport. I explained that our spanish isn't very good, he urged his friend over since she spoke english. They were headed to the airport from a city a couple hours away, and they only got as far as the toll booth due to a flat tire. She had a flight to Los Angeles in an hour and needed a ride to the airport. It was only a little out of our way so we offered to drop her off. She hurriedly said goodbye to her friends, grabbed her suit case and hopped in the backseat of our Jeep. We chatted on the way and learned she lives in LA and works as a waitress at a popular hot pot restaurant. She enjoyed her stay with friends, but thought it was very hot. They are enjoying their time working in Mexico, but miss a variety of greens and vegetables. Particularly, bok choy. However, brief, it was nice getting to know her and we were happy to help her out. We got her to the airport with minutes to spare. She told us to call next time we were in LA.
With our good deed out of the way, we were off to our planned destination which was lunch at Flora Farms. It's popular with foodies and celebrities, it gets a lot of press. Every piece I've read written about Cabo seems to mention Flora Farms. I had to go see what the fuss was about. Dinner requires reservations and they are suggested for lunch. However, we like a gamble and showed hoping to be seated. Thankfully, it wasn't a problem. They led us to a table right away.
Flora Farms is more than a restaurant. It is a working ten acre organic farm. There is the farm, of course, and the restaurant. Also, there is a bar, shops and grocery onsite, along with culinary cottages living spaces (owner's have harvesting privileges), plus multiple event venues.
It's quite the operation, but THE BREAD. Swoon. The bread was worth the trip alone. If I could eat it all day and night, I'd die a happy woman. The menu is drool worthy. We started with housemade burrata which was just as good if not better than what we had in Italy. We followed that up with butternut squash ravioli and sausage sandwich with pickled veggies which was reminiscent of banh mi. It was a lovely lunch and I'd be happy to stay all day, but we had to return the rental and catch a flight home.
Everything went smoothly, except that Frank was denied his butane lighter at security. His cigar accessories are never a problem leaving the US, but returning they're always confiscated when we don't have checked baggage. Lesson learned. Our connection in Phoenix was a breeze, though, longer than we'd prefer. I cannot say enough good things about Global Entry. It is super convenient and it saves so much time. Well worth the money spent.
Baja gets a bad rap, but we encountered no ill will in any of our travels and we never felt threatened. Getting trapped in the sand was only concern and friendly locals came to our rescue. Despite what the media portrays, I firmly believe that in most cases trouble only finds you when you go looking for it. Sure, you can be at the wrong place at the wrong time, but freak things can happen anywhere. Don't fear the chupacabras. Go! Have an adventure and relish in the beauty.
With our good deed out of the way, we were off to our planned destination which was lunch at Flora Farms. It's popular with foodies and celebrities, it gets a lot of press. Every piece I've read written about Cabo seems to mention Flora Farms. I had to go see what the fuss was about. Dinner requires reservations and they are suggested for lunch. However, we like a gamble and showed hoping to be seated. Thankfully, it wasn't a problem. They led us to a table right away.
Flora Farms is more than a restaurant. It is a working ten acre organic farm. There is the farm, of course, and the restaurant. Also, there is a bar, shops and grocery onsite, along with culinary cottages living spaces (owner's have harvesting privileges), plus multiple event venues.
It's quite the operation, but THE BREAD. Swoon. The bread was worth the trip alone. If I could eat it all day and night, I'd die a happy woman. The menu is drool worthy. We started with housemade burrata which was just as good if not better than what we had in Italy. We followed that up with butternut squash ravioli and sausage sandwich with pickled veggies which was reminiscent of banh mi. It was a lovely lunch and I'd be happy to stay all day, but we had to return the rental and catch a flight home.
Everything went smoothly, except that Frank was denied his butane lighter at security. His cigar accessories are never a problem leaving the US, but returning they're always confiscated when we don't have checked baggage. Lesson learned. Our connection in Phoenix was a breeze, though, longer than we'd prefer. I cannot say enough good things about Global Entry. It is super convenient and it saves so much time. Well worth the money spent.
Baja gets a bad rap, but we encountered no ill will in any of our travels and we never felt threatened. Getting trapped in the sand was only concern and friendly locals came to our rescue. Despite what the media portrays, I firmly believe that in most cases trouble only finds you when you go looking for it. Sure, you can be at the wrong place at the wrong time, but freak things can happen anywhere. Don't fear the chupacabras. Go! Have an adventure and relish in the beauty.
May 31, 2017
West Baja California Sur Peninsula
The last leg of our Baja California Sur trip was spent on the Pacific Coast. We stayed in El Pescadero, but started our day in Todos Santos. Both are about an hour's drive north of Cabo San Lucas. They sit in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains with rich farmland where a plethora of produce flourishes.
Todos Santos is the more popular of the two. It has recently had a tourist boom thanks to upscale restaurants, art galleries and boutique shops. Hotel California is at its hub, it was made famous by the Eagles song, but has no ties. Though, the band did file suit a few weeks after our trip for trademark infringement and they're seeking damages. It'll be interesting to see what comes of it.
We grabbed breakfast at the highly rated La Esquina, it is situated in a lovely setting, but the niceties stop there. Service and the food were subpar; my chilaquiles were littered with egg shells and the acidity was overkill. Frank fared a bit better. Still, it was a bummer.
Next we took a ride out to raw land near the beach. The area is primitive with gates in the middle of the desert to mark the dirt road. It is mostly untouched with a few lots being cleared for those with big dreams. It'll be interesting to return in a year or two and see how it's changed.
We decided to check out the beach. However, the sand was much to deep to risk taking the jeep so we were left to drudge through the sand under the hot sun. The beaches in Todos Santos are like most on the Pacific coast, which are not safe swimming due to the undertow, riptide and steep drop offs. There wasn't a soul around. The waves were fierce and echoed for what seemed like miles. It was a much longer hike than I anticipated. But we made it.
We dawdled long enough that we were able to check in so we made our way to our Airbnb in El Pescadero. What a wonderful find in this sleepy village! The owner lives on site and rents out multiple rooms. She has carved out quite a paradise near the sea, for her, and her lucky guests. We were especially fortunate since no other rooms were booked; we had the shared spaces all to ourselves. We positively adored the rooftop terrace. It was equipped with a kitchen and bath, plus offered a shady living room area. It won't come as a surprise, but we spent a great deal of time there. The view was simply stunning and I'll never tire of sound of waves crashing on shore.
Our host recommended Hierbabuena for dinner. We loved it so much we ate there twice. Farm to table? So, yesteryear! In these parts they bring the table to the farm. Literally, you dine where your veggies are grown. It's beautiful, fresh and mighty delicious. The first night we feasted on hummus, chile relleno and the catch of the day with veggies, and we shared a chocolate tarte for dessert. The tuna was really fantastic! The following night, we started with guacamole and butternut squash soup and finished with eggplant parmesan and veggie calzone. The veggies are so fresh and delicious we didn't miss the meat one bit.
The sun setting over the Pacific was such a treat since we started the day by watching it rise over the Sea of Cortez. Now, we can cross that one off the bucket list.
The next day we took the dirt coastal road to Cerritos. It was quite misty from the marine layer, but scenic. We had brunch at the Cerritos Inn & Restaurant. It wouldn't be a trip to Mexico without meeting a dog that wanted to be friends (that day, we met two). Our omelet and enchiladas were tasty, the view was lovely. However, I was chilled from the dampness in the air. I didn't care to linger long. The weather was similar to Southern California. A bit too wet and cool for my liking. I needed full sun to keep warm.
We stopped for coffee at Baja Beans. It's a local gathering spot. A couple times a week a market is hosted there and it draws a good crowd. Sipping on my iced coffee I couldn't help but wonder if I was in SoCal or Mexico? The feels were just the same.
One last sunset slips into the sea as the moon quietly rises. It was our final night in Baja California Sur. I felt a flutter in my gut. It was a familiar feeling, I felt it before ages ago on trip to Las Vegas. I recall it as it were yesterday... We stood in darkness with neon illuminating the sky, and, it was then, Frank and I vowed that one day Las Vegas would be home. This night under the moonlit sky, toes deep in the sand and my skin damp from the ocean mist - that flutter, I knew it meant I felt right at home in Baja Sur.
Todos Santos is the more popular of the two. It has recently had a tourist boom thanks to upscale restaurants, art galleries and boutique shops. Hotel California is at its hub, it was made famous by the Eagles song, but has no ties. Though, the band did file suit a few weeks after our trip for trademark infringement and they're seeking damages. It'll be interesting to see what comes of it.
We grabbed breakfast at the highly rated La Esquina, it is situated in a lovely setting, but the niceties stop there. Service and the food were subpar; my chilaquiles were littered with egg shells and the acidity was overkill. Frank fared a bit better. Still, it was a bummer.
Next we took a ride out to raw land near the beach. The area is primitive with gates in the middle of the desert to mark the dirt road. It is mostly untouched with a few lots being cleared for those with big dreams. It'll be interesting to return in a year or two and see how it's changed.
We decided to check out the beach. However, the sand was much to deep to risk taking the jeep so we were left to drudge through the sand under the hot sun. The beaches in Todos Santos are like most on the Pacific coast, which are not safe swimming due to the undertow, riptide and steep drop offs. There wasn't a soul around. The waves were fierce and echoed for what seemed like miles. It was a much longer hike than I anticipated. But we made it.
We dawdled long enough that we were able to check in so we made our way to our Airbnb in El Pescadero. What a wonderful find in this sleepy village! The owner lives on site and rents out multiple rooms. She has carved out quite a paradise near the sea, for her, and her lucky guests. We were especially fortunate since no other rooms were booked; we had the shared spaces all to ourselves. We positively adored the rooftop terrace. It was equipped with a kitchen and bath, plus offered a shady living room area. It won't come as a surprise, but we spent a great deal of time there. The view was simply stunning and I'll never tire of sound of waves crashing on shore.
Our host recommended Hierbabuena for dinner. We loved it so much we ate there twice. Farm to table? So, yesteryear! In these parts they bring the table to the farm. Literally, you dine where your veggies are grown. It's beautiful, fresh and mighty delicious. The first night we feasted on hummus, chile relleno and the catch of the day with veggies, and we shared a chocolate tarte for dessert. The tuna was really fantastic! The following night, we started with guacamole and butternut squash soup and finished with eggplant parmesan and veggie calzone. The veggies are so fresh and delicious we didn't miss the meat one bit.
The sun setting over the Pacific was such a treat since we started the day by watching it rise over the Sea of Cortez. Now, we can cross that one off the bucket list.
The next day we took the dirt coastal road to Cerritos. It was quite misty from the marine layer, but scenic. We had brunch at the Cerritos Inn & Restaurant. It wouldn't be a trip to Mexico without meeting a dog that wanted to be friends (that day, we met two). Our omelet and enchiladas were tasty, the view was lovely. However, I was chilled from the dampness in the air. I didn't care to linger long. The weather was similar to Southern California. A bit too wet and cool for my liking. I needed full sun to keep warm.
We stopped for coffee at Baja Beans. It's a local gathering spot. A couple times a week a market is hosted there and it draws a good crowd. Sipping on my iced coffee I couldn't help but wonder if I was in SoCal or Mexico? The feels were just the same.
One last sunset slips into the sea as the moon quietly rises. It was our final night in Baja California Sur. I felt a flutter in my gut. It was a familiar feeling, I felt it before ages ago on trip to Las Vegas. I recall it as it were yesterday... We stood in darkness with neon illuminating the sky, and, it was then, Frank and I vowed that one day Las Vegas would be home. This night under the moonlit sky, toes deep in the sand and my skin damp from the ocean mist - that flutter, I knew it meant I felt right at home in Baja Sur.
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