Once in a Lifetime

I didn't get the rest I so desperately craved. My slumber was disturbed by a 2AM fire alarm. There was no announcement stating it was only a drill. I quickly dressed, grabbed my passport and met the other guests in the lobby. Thankfully, it was a false alarm. Apparently, it happens fairly regularly too because guests try to sneak a smoke in their room - opening the window isn't enough to stop the alarm. I felt they should have opened the honesty bar to us to quell the adrenaline. There was zero chance I was falling back to sleep. I kept routine and planned my day.



 

Since it was Sunday, it only seemed natural to go to church. First stop was Notre Dame. It's a shame about the fire. It maintains my record of a major attraction undergoing repairs. At least the exterior wasn't shrouded in facade or scaffolding. I hear Notre Dame had more tourists than the Eiffel Tower which is pretty remarkable.   Next, I walked over to Saint Chappell. It might not be as famous but it is still quite beautiful. I purchased a skip the line pass, but it was totally unnecessary. It was a cloudy morning on my visit but the stained glass was still stunning.

 







 

I also purchased a skip the line pass for the Arc de Triomphe. Google showed the route only taking 15 minutes by train. However, little did I know that metro and RER closures continued throughout the city due to the yellow vest anniversary. It took two hours to get to the Arc de Triomphe only to find it closed. 

 

Police were searching anyone with a back pack. Traffic down Champs-Élysées was halted due to random searches and even by foot I was redirected.

I had time to kill before my Eiffel Tower skip the line tour with guide. So, I opened up the Fork app in search of lunch. I was led to La Marée. The reviews were solid and I received a discount. I ordered the bouillabaisse I was all about trying as many classic French dishes as possible. It was good, not great. Cioppino will always be closer to my heart. I finished the meal with the largest dessert I've ever seen. I made a dent but finishing it was out of the question.

 

I walked to the Eiffel Tower Tour office a bit early in hopes that they'd accommodate me. They tried to upsell me to a summit visit a bit later than my scheduled tour, it was only 10€ more so there was value to be had, but I refused due to other plans. I was told to return closer to my 4:15PM reservation. 







I went to a nearby bistro for a glass of wine to pass the time. It fit the bill perfectly. I was able to join the group departing at 4pm. The guide shared many details that I had already known. However, she also pointed out the Louis Vuitton Fondation. Which is a museum designed by one of my favorite architects, Frank Gehry. It was immediately added to my must visit list. After the tour, the guide set us free to explore. 











I hung out on the tower til sunset in case mother nature decided to put on an impressive display. It never dazzled so I bailed to see the hourly light show from Tracadero Park. I ended up stopping short, at the Siene River; the view was spot on.



Plus, I figured Uber would be easy to catch from the carousel. I had to get to La Maroquinerie for a Stick Figure concert and knowing the disaster train service had been all weekend, I wanted to avoid it altogether. 

After securing an Uber I was on my way to the venue. I sent my ride to Frank, I was solo, my driver spoke no English. Since I was stranded and exposed to tear gas the day before; If I had learned anything, it was that havoc was possible at any turn. Fortunately, I arrived without incident despite a few road closures and even more close calls. A reminder I never want to drive in Paris.

I joined the line outside La Maroquinerie. Frank questioned if I was in the right place. I doubted it myself until I saw the sign welcoming Stick Figure. Doors opened and we had free reign. Had I not been solo I could have secured a spot front and center. My thirst got the best of me and I went in search of a water and beer. There was no coat check so I was pleased I brought my packable jacket especially since it was already warm before bodies filled the space. I was able to roll it up and tie it onto my purse so I would not lose it.

The venue is described as a sweatbox, it did not take long to learn why. I also quickly discovered why perfume is so popular in France... Though deodorant should be. It was not the ideal situation for those of us that are vertically challenged. That said, it was so worth while. Stench and all. No one in the place spoke English. Then, Stick Figure took the stage and the sold out joint sang word for word in unison, with more accuracy and enthusiasm I have ever encountered in the states.

 

Beforehand, I was fortunate to meet Stick Family. The moniker given to fans on Facebook. It was the only English I heard before Stick took the stage. It was incredibly cool to meet people from all over that we brought together by the love of music. Once in a Lifetime. Actually... I hope not! Truly, the experience, only encouraged me to travel outside the US to see my favorite bands. Also, don't hesitate to attend a show solo. Sure, there is no one to hold your spot, but it definitely has its perks too. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

A Date with my Friend, Mona.

Sleep did not come easily in Paris; the routine became to catch up with everyone back home, wind down and force myself to get shut eye around 2am. I'd sleep 3-4 hours at best. In the wee hours, I'd plan my day, purchase tickets, read restaurant reviews, etc.

This morning, I was starved and sought out a little café across from Luxumbourg Gardens named Au Petit Suisse. I had a cappuccino and a croque madame. It hit the spot. 

Belly full, I wandered the Luxembourg gardens. The fall colors were lovely.

Next, I decided to see Sacre Coeur. The route I was given was unpleasant. When I arrived at the Chateau Rouge Metro stop, I was on edge. The surroundings were intimidating; I pressed on hoping for improvement. Surfacing street level did not change things. I was overwhelmed by the activity. I did not feel comfortable so I took the train back to Gare Nord. My instincts were not wrong according to reviews on Google (many have been robbed) and it was noted to avoid this route and take the Anvers station instead.

I tried to find an alternative route, but Google failed to provide directions to anywhere via public transit- it continuously offered Uber. It didn't seem like a feasible option. My frustration grew and I looked for anything on the map that was familiar.; traveling by foot seemed like the best option... at least, I was on the move. I found Pink Mamma on the map and opted to walk 20 minutes from Gare Nord via Boulevard de la Chappelle. I don't recommend this route either, but it seemed to be the best alternative. I walked with purpose and ignored hawkers and made my way through the crowd.

After the Barbes - Rochechouart street market (under the Metro line), there was an odd smell in the air. Everyone coming toward me had their faces covered with scarves. As I continued onward, my eyes, nose and throat began to burn. It took a minute to register - tear gas! By the next block, I was certain it was tear gas. To the south, you could see a huge crowd and insane police presence. I'd later learn that there were protests all over the city for the yellow vest anniversary. This stopped trains and forced closures through Sunday. Fortunately, I was a safe distance away, and the further I walked the air cleared. Approaching Pigalle Ave, I felt I could finally breathe. The red light district was a little seedy with strip clubs, massage and sex shops, but tourists walked the streets and the tear gas no longer lingered.

  

I was relieved to arrive at Pink Mamma. It was quite the journey. I was able to walk in and be seated at the counter on the third floor. There are perks to being solo. Before seeing the menu, I knew I'd be having the truffle pasta. One of the dishes they are most known for. I also enjoyed a well deserved glass of wine. The pasta was a perfect al dente. It was good, but honestly, I thought the dish was a little light on truffle flavor. Typically, I find dishes completely intoxicating even when it is only truffle oil used. This was very mild.

 

Train schedules were still unclear. I opted to walk to the Louvre. Again, it took longer than expected. Crowds were diverted by a huge group of police.

I had trouble finding the pyramid at the Louvre. Imagine that - something so iconic hiding in plain sight I was so annoyed. Time was ticking away and I needed to gain entry by 4:30 to receive priority. I only had minutes to spare, but I made it. Phew. Once my ticket was scanned I scoured the wing signage seeking a bathroom. I had zero success. Defeated; I asked staff and was told to go back to the pyramid. I was not having any luck. I had to exit where my ticket was just scanned, I had no idea if there was re-entry. I figured there must be, if you had to leave for toilettes, but I was leery given my luck of late.

Fortunately, my pass was rescanned without issue. I wandered the Richellieu wing taking in the sights and noted the time. There was only an hour til closing and I had yet to locate the Mona Lisa. I made it priority and figured I could wander with any time I had left. Scanning my ticket in the Denon Wing didn't go as smooth. It initially denied access, but they after reviewing the ticket they waived me on. Mona was easier to locate than initially thought - just follow the horde. Our meeting was brief, but I saw my girl. Then, I was able to leisurely stroll until the museum closed. Everyone departing at the same time led to long queues to exit and the longest lines for the restroom. I ended up paying to use the one in the connecting mall's food court. It was the only time it cost me to pee. I planned or timed accordingly otherwise.







From the Louvre, I wandered the grounds to see the Carrousel Arc de Triomphe and then made my way to Le Relais de Entrecôte for traditional steak frites. The dining experience is unique. Queues begin before the doors open, and despite rapidly turning over tables, crowds build during business hours. There is only one question asked immediately upon being seated - How do you want your steak cooked? You can also choose wine: white or red. The rest is streamlined. You'll begin with greens and walnuts and your steak-frites soon follow. You can have a second helping if you choose. The secret is in sauce.



 

I walked off my dinner by wandering the neighborhood taking in the sights and sounds of Paris. I retired to the hotel early the events of the day left me weary. I was hopeful for a good night's rest.