The Last Hurrah

We wrapped up our trip in Playa del Carmen. We found a great little apartment on Airbnb last visit, it has superb location and it's very reasonably priced. It was an easy choice to rebook our last night there. We stayed in a different unit this time, it too, was comfortable and well appointed.



On our first trip we discovered La Cueva de Chango. It's best known for breakfast, but all meals were quite good. It's grown by leaps and bounds in popularity and size. It used to be on the edge of town and now, it feels like it's smack dab in the center. It was bustling on a Sunday morning. We were fortunate to grab the last open table. We ordered and while we waited for our food, we noted how it's seem to have lost it's charm. It's quite the operation these days, definitely not the quaint place it once was and I'm sad to say it felt like it was run like Denny's. I was quite disappointed by the food, as well. It was a bummer.



Oh, and there's a Starbucks in Playa del Carmen now. Drive thru and all. It makes me happy that locals are doing well, but it makes me cringe too. I don't need American conveniences when traveling abroad.

Anyhow, after snorkeling in Akumal, we checked in and readied for the evening. We wandered 5th street a bit and we were just amazed by all the new resorts and condos that have replaced modest hotels and shops, which seemed pint sized by comparison. Alhambra was a hotel that neighbored Playa Maya, which was the hotel we stayed at on our first visit. Last trip, it was closed and set for demo. Now a gorgeous modern hotel stood in its place. It was remarkable. We saw that it had a rooftop bar and decided to check it out. In addition to the bar, there is a sushi bar, dance floor and infinity pool. Plus, the outer edge offered stellar beach views and you could see all the way to Cozumel.

[photo: tripadvisor]



The day crowd had left, and the evening goers hadn't come yet, so we lucked into a bed overlooking the sea. We got cozy and cervezas flowed. Sunset was stunning and we somehow found our own little nook amid the hectic chaos in the heart of Playa del Carmen. It was perfect.








We had a snack of sushi and sashimi before we left for one last meal at El Fogon. They are open late every day so we didn't have to rush to enjoy tacos. It totally hit the spot after hours of drinking. At least, some things remain as good as ever.



I wasn't quite ready to leave, but our time was up. I packed and tried to get a few winks before our early flight home. We dropped off our rental at Alamo and they tried to boost the final bill by charging more for the required insurance plus a few extras. We provided the confirmation and were told the manager would adjust. They kept their word. Our Southwest flight to LAX was empty. We were able to sit in the first seats which gave Frank plenty of leg room. You gotta love poor man's first class. Being the first off the plane helped us pass through customs quickly. We have Global Entry so we bypass the long lines and go directly to the kiosk. There was no line. Frank zipped right through, I, on the other hand, was flagged for review. I had a slight wait to talk with an agent. Even with the delay, it was still about 40 minutes before our bags made it to the carousel. The line to leave was insane. Fortunately, we could pass right through. Global Entry, for the win! A must a LAX.

LAX is the worst airport. It's so congested and just a terrible layout. Usually you can check your bag immediately outside of customs when making a connection, but here, we had to leave the building and find a hidden escalator in another terminal and then wait with the masses to recheck our bag. Had we not had Global Entry, I'm not sure our 4 hour layover would have been long enough. Gosh, if it were a short hour or two, we surely would've missed our connection.

We grabbed lunch at California Pizza Kitchen to pass the time to boarding. It was a far better choice than the Rock & Brews nearby. Our flight to Vegas was full, but otherwise uneventful.

There you have it, another trip was in the books. Our travels to the Yucatan might cease, but I'm excited to find the adventures that lurk elsewhere.

Adios, Akumal!

A stop at La Buena Vida has become tradition when visiting Akumal. It's nestled into the residential neighborhood near Yal Ku Lagoon. We've found it to be a better place for cocktails than a bite, but it offers lovely views of Half Moon Bay. There are usually iguana sightings - can you spot him sunbathing below? And, plenty of people watching. We stayed for a couple beers and Frank enjoyed a cigar. It's relaxing to sit in the shade and feel the sea breeze through your hair.



Yal Ku Lagoon is a must when in Akumal. The water is always calm so conditions are always favorable for snorkeling. This time, we entered on the backside near the homes that surround the lagoon. I recall only one entrance in the past so I'm thinking this second option is new. The man at the desk claimed it was the better choice. It worked out nicely for us. We rented a locker to store our valuables. The path to the water was short and winding.





There was a crowd on the dock, but not so much that it hindered getting into the water. We brought our own gear, so there was no learning curve or major adjustments to be made. The entrance was closest to the area fed by the cenotes, which is also where the water is most cold. I felt the chill sting my skin so I went immediately under. I wasn't cold for long. I did better this time snorkeling than ever before. I never panicked, even when surrounded by schools of fish. The only issue I really encountered was a foggy mask. The current was quite strong so we kept to the cenote side of the lagoon. It was exhausting closer to the sea.















The clarity wasn't as good as it's been before, I think the current decreased viability. Still, we were able to see all sorts of fish. I only wish we were able to better capture those with the beautiful colors.

Farewell, Xpu-ha!

My love for Xpu-ha is deep. The beach is pristine with sugary white sand and crystal clear aqua hues. It's home to beautiful reefs, which are wonderful to explore by snorkeling on calm days. It has become more developed over the years, but compared to other beaches in the Riviera Maya it remains fairly remote. Yet, perfectly nestled between all the conveniences of Playa del Carmen and Akumal. It is our slice of heaven. It saddens me to say that this trip is our farewell tour. We knew it was coming, but the closing of Al Cielo in April seals the deal. I was devastated to hear the news. I mean it was bad enough when the nightly rate doubled, but completed leveled? "Ahhh, man. Say it isn't so." Its rustic simplicity is what tugged on my heart strings. But they're going to do away with it, to make way for modern accommodations equipped with televisions. I cringe at the thought. That level of beauty is best enjoyed unplugged.



Closing this chapter will allow us to discover someplace new. I find that exciting. Still, I wished I could scoop that sugary sand into an hour glass. So, I could turn it over and over again, each time having a fresh start...

There are not many choices for accommodations in Xpu-ha so I was thrilled when I found a place on Airbnb. We've walked by its location dozens of times, but past trips nothing really existed past the all inclusive that changed names a few times, currently called Hotel Catalonia Royal Tulum. The listing warned of the neighboring Glamping and Kite Surfing, but we thought we'd take our chances. We arrived prior to check in, we thought we'd hang at the beach club, if possible. It wasn't a problem, but it didn't offer the tranquil vibe we enjoy. Music was thumping, the scent of sun tan lotion filled the air and it was just too much. The snap below was from the next day before the beach club opened.



We drove to Al Cielo and asked to rent a palapa for the day. Fortunately, they do offer a day pass for $70 US per person. A bit steep, but the fee works as a food and beverage credit. The round palapas that were there for ages have been replaced with rectangular huts to unify them with those at Esencia next door. They've also added a magical button that is pressed for service, it alerts the waitstaff via watch and poof! Drinks and snacks are moments away. We made ourselves right at home. Cue the reggae music, cervezas were on their way, and we had no a worry in the world. It was wonderful.





We kept cool with margaritas and once the sun wasn't at its hottest we went for a dip. The wind was still too strong to snorkel, but we had a blast in the waves. The perk of more activity on the beach was the people watching. There was a fun group that drew all sorts of attention. First, they posed individually, then they worked up to build this man fan.



We grew hungry and grabbed lunch at the restaurant. We had a great spread of fish tacos and ceviche. Frank started with a tasty Aztec soup. With our hunger satisfied, we returned to the comfort of our loungers. Drinks were had, cigars smoked. It was the perfect day.







Before we knew it, the sun fell behind the jungle and another day was done. We couldn't drag ourselves away. We retreated to the balcony in the restaurant for one last round of drinks. Eventually the sea breeze was too cold on my sunkissed skin, and it was time to go. But before we left, we reserved our palapa - hasta mañana.

Our Airbnb host was away in Columbia. The unit had beach access only, my favorite. Not! A throwback for any Wayne's World fans. We let ourselves in, after locating the lock box. The unit was quaint, but it had all the necessities. We showered for dinner, which was no small task; The water temperature varied by the second, scolding or ice. It must be par for the course in Xpu-ha, we encountered the same years ago at Al Cielo (when it was even more rustic than it stands today).





Dinner that night was at El Fogon. Because, well, tacos. Do you need more explanation? Al pastor and margaritas is all I need.



I'd like to say we slept well at the Airbnb. The A/C was cool, the bed was small but otherwise comfortable. The trouble was the rooster next door. He was a real asshole. He cockadoodle doo'd way before dawn and never let up. You can't win 'em all.

Needless to say, we had an early start. No time was wasted returning to Al Cielo. We started our day with breakfast at the restaurant. Chilaquiles for me and Huevos Rancheros for him. It hit the spot!




We relaxed all morning. There might have been more margaritas consumed. And later, cervezas.



A storm came thru, but didn't leave more than a drizzle near us. We took advantage of the cloud cover and played in the waves.









Much too quickly, the sun would again set. The time had come to say good-bye. Thanks for the memories, Al Cielo.





Massimo in Puerto Aventuras has been a favorite past trips, so we had to return for pizza and fresh pasta. It was great, as always.





The morning came much too soon, we tried to drown out the rooster, but it was just impossible. We packed up and had one last walk on the beach...





Next up, Akumal and Playa del Carmen.

Beyond Tulum

Frank sprung from bed about 5:30 so we did not miss the sun rise. I was slower to leave the comforts of the covers, but I do love a good sun rise over the sea so I wearily moved about and joined him on the patio. We sat in the darkness about 30 minutes and the sky didn't brighten one bit. Frank turned to Google, and it said the sun would wake about 6:30. We had terrible coffee, terrible empanadas and a decent blueberry muffin while we waited. We also met a friend, a red tabby. She wasn't the least bit interested in food, just our company. She stayed close by the rest of our stay. Seven o'clock had struck, and finally, there was a glimmer of light.



Funny thing about being in the central time zone with eastern standard time, it allows the sun a snooze button. Longest sun rise ever. Fortunately, it was worth the wait! Look at that amber glow.



We packed up our snorkel gear and headed out for a day of adventure. GPS predicted a 2.5 hour drive from Tulum to Mahahual, it seemed over-estimated, but it didn't lie. Even with Frank's heavy size 15 on the pedal. There are a few towns in between, but not much else.



The turn off for Mahahual is clearly marked from Highway 307, and the road condition is fantastic the entire way so other than the distance, it's an easy drive. A light house welcomes those who arrive to Mahahual by car or cruise ship.






A half mile or so in the distance you can spot the Costa Maya port. That's right, this sleepy town grows by leaps and bounds from the daily influx of cruise passengers. Day travelers and off the beaten path trekkers co-exist here. A portion of the Malecon is only open to foot traffic, many likely never see what's beyond it. That's the part that had us intrigued.

The Malecon opens to traffic a bit down the road, golf carts are the main mode of transport in the area. The beach is narrow, the water is clear and the reef is so close you feel like you can reach out and touch it. Hotels and dive shops line the west side of the road. Leaving the beach for lazy days under the cover of palm trees or palapas. I couldn't help but wonder if this was always the case or if it was a result of Hurricane Dean, which destroyed much of the village in 2007. It's been fully rebuilt since then, I suspect building on the west side off the road offers a great deal of protection compared to the vulnerability of beachfront.











Further down, it gets quieter as the paved road turns to dirt. It's layered with pot holes and only wide enough for one vehicle in spots. Frank received a recommendation for a beach club that was 10 KM past town. Unfortunately, the name escapes me. As soon as, we thought we had gone too far, we spotted it on the right. We parked and went inside, it looked lovely and the ocean breeze was delightful. However, it was closed. They were serving breakfast buffet for hotel guests. We must have been too early. He was also told about a public beach further up the road, so we sought after that. We never found what we were looking for, but we stopped along the way to check out beachfront properties. Those that weren't maintained by homeowner or business were completely littered in plastic and trash. It crushed my heart to see something so beautiful, destroyed by man. It would take an army to clean the beaches. I'm betting there isn't enough resources or it's simply too costly to remove all of the rubbish that washes up on shore. I should have been astonished by the beauty, but I was ashamed and angry.





We pressed on, I thought we'd make it Xcalak. A remote village practically on the border of Belize. We were so close, but the gas light illuminated. I was doubtful we'd find another Pemex other than the one we passed before approaching the Mahahual lighthouse. The sea remained shallow with reef right up to the shore so it wasn't quite what we were after. We turned back and had one last look at Mahahual. I suggested to Frank that we check out Bacalar, known for the Lake of Seven Colors since we had come all this way. He was on board, we set our sights in that direction after filling up with gas. With the conversion, it was about $40 US. Far more expensive, these days, since the government stopped subsidizing the prices.







An hour later, we were in Bacalar. It rests on the shores of the inland Laguna de Bacalar which is about 25 miles north of the border town, and capital city, Chetumal. The lake is fed by cenotes with a limestone bottom, it casts the most amazing shades of blue. You can easily get lost in its beautiful tranquil glow. We were starved when we arrived, so the first order of business was lunch. A quick search on tripadvisor turned up El Manati Bacalar as the most popular spot to grab a bite. We were two blocks away - Perfecto! A galleria and market take up much of the space, a few tables a scattered in the rear garden. The scent of fruit sweetens the air as it's grown all around you. I missed that it was mostly a breakfast spot, but we had no trouble finding items on the menu. Chilaquiles are always an easy sell with me and Frank settled on the BLT. My choice was a bit better than his. The coffee and juice were the real winners, though.





After lunch, we tried to find somewhere to view the lake. There really isn't any open spaces, various businesses sell tours, but some where too high pressure, while others were impossible to coordinate. We couldn't nail down a boat tour, and we didn't want to pay the premium for an all day pass. Just when we were about to give up, Frank found a spot on outskirts of town that had a family living on site. A young girl collected the 5 pesos to enter and offered a two hour boat tour. The tour was longer than I wanted, but we drove down to the water to see what the lake offered. Swings hung from the trees, and little nooks were available to whoever grabbed them first. We were the only tourists. There were many families that had been picnicking for the day. There was no sand to ease into the water, just gravel. Frank tore up his feet walking to the swing. We didn't stay long, just long enough for the photo opportunity and I went just far enough out to say I was in it. Of course, the sun hid behind the clouds leaving the lake deep blue in color, rather than the shades of turquoise I was desperate to capture.







Frank was still trying to find a good vantage point, but I threw in the towel and suggested we head back. He agreed, but made one last attempt by turning off the highway to follow the signs toward Buena Vista.



The view improved, but it wasn't quite what I had hoped. Then, Frank found another way to the water. And finally, we came upon a rundown park, maybe abandoned? There was a rickety dock, broken slides and seaside cabanas. I'm sure during it's prime this was a happening spot. I found it a little eerie, but the view was indeed good.







We made it back to Tulum in good time, we were able to catch the sunset. We didn't get to snorkel and we didn't find our beach, but we did have an adventure. Cheers to that!

We cozied up to watch the pastel skies and snacked on guacamole while we panned restaurant reviews searching for a place in Tulum to try for dinner.



Frank chose the Kitchen Table. Deviled avocados swayed him! The restaurant is located in the jungle near the ruins so we thought it best to cover ourselves in bug spray to ward off the mosquitoes. It was a wise choice. I felt them flutter around my ankles while seated. Don't let that dissuade you, the restaurant is something special. It's completely integrated into the jungle surrounding with minimal ecological impact. They operate on solar, hence, the low lighting. Ingredients are fresh and local. They also specialize in craft cocktails, and they maintain a pretty good spirit list. I enjoy cocktails using mezcal and this one didn't disappoint. Frank opted for the mezcal straight. The Deviled Avocado made the trip worthwhile, it was delicious. We followed it with entrees of Octopus and Tuna. Solid meal, all around.







The Kitchen Table reminded me of what I love about Tulum. It packed a big city punch, but it was rustic and simplistic. Tulum might be the Yucatan's smallest big city. It's grown over time, but it has maintained it's charm. It's not Starbucks, malls and highrise condos. Like Playa del Carmen has become. It keeps a slower pace and it's stayed rooted in Mayan and Mexican culture. It's a real gem.

I was a little sad to leave in the morning, but I knew Xpu-ha awaits!



Adios, Tulum! It's been fun.