San Antonio: The Alamo ain't got nothing on the Prickly Pear Margarita

When we arrived back in San Antonio we returned the car rental, and then, caught a cab to The St. Anthony Riverwalk. Check in was a breeze, the staff was very friendly and we were given a scratch card and chocolates in the shape of tools since the hotel was undergoing renovations. It was a nice touch. Plus, they tucked us away from the construction so noise was never a concern. The hotel was built in 1909 it has since undergone many updates, but the charm remains.







After resting a bit, we headed out for the night. The streets of downtown were so quiet it was bizarre. We took the steps down and poof it was lively. All the people are hiding on the Riverwalk. We took a stroll and met a friendly local couple that suggested a margarita from Market Square was must! After wandering the Riverwalk we emerged to street level to further explore.



We came upon Leapin Lizards Pub, we popped in for a couple beers. Our time there was short lived, I'm usually a fan of dive bars but this one had an odd vibe and Frank used the restroom and he said it was the most disgusting he's ever seen. I didn't even want to take a chance with the ladies room so we left. We ended up at Whataburger for a late night snack. I don't usually eat fast food, but when I do it's at a chain we don't have at home. Whataburger began in Corpus Christi, Texas, but now has several stores across the country. I had the jalapeno & cheese burger, it was pretty weak. The cheese wasn't very melty, and the jalapenos had no heat. Frank chose the monterey melt and it was a far better pick. It was gooey, spicy and I must admit pretty darn tasty.

The following day we went to the Alamo. Everytime someone asked us why we were visiting San Antonio, Frank would say, "to see the Alamo." Thankfully, it's really not the reason we came, because we'd be sorely disappointed. It took us all of ten minutes to experience it.









We stopped at the visitor's center and picked up two days worth of bus passes ($4 each) and then took a trolley to The Guenther House. It is a popular brunch spot that offers a step back in time since it is within the 1860 home of the Pioneer flour mills founding family. The flour is used today to make their pancakes, waffles and biscuits. It's a big draw and we waited about 90 minutes for a table. The wait could have easily been half that if they were better at turning tables over quickly. It was shocking, really, how long it took to clear tables and set them up for the next group. Luckily, the grounds are lovely and it helps to pass the time. The home is nestled in the historic King William neighborhood. We walked along the river while we waited.





Breakfast was good, but I cannot say it was worth the wait. Frank started with cream of broccoli soup. It was very creamy with full broccoli florets. He also had the breakfast platter with eggs, buttermilk biscuits, side of Pioneer’s Country Gravy with crumbled sausage, breakfast potatoes and country sausage patties. I had the sweet cream waffle with bacon. The waffle was light and crisp, but I was most pleased with the applewood smoked bacon. Brunch set us back $30.







Bellies full, we strolled around the King Williams neighborhood and admired the homes.





From there, we took the trolley to HemisFair Park so we could experience the Observation Deck ($10 for two). When we got to the top we were warm and sweaty (it's not easy adjusting to humidity), the cool breeze felt wonderful. You can see out for several miles since the land is so flat. It sits at 750 feet. It was hard to be impressed over its height since I recently jumped 829 feet from the Stratosphere. Still it was a nice way to kill some time and enjoy the view.









Afterwards, we walked over the Rio San Antonio Cruises. We rode along the river learning about various tidbits about the river and the city. It's very crowded on the boat, but it's a tour worth doing.











We worked up a little hunger so we stopped at Schilo's Delicatessen. It's a German deli in the heart of downtown. It piqued our interest as soon as we came across it. I had potato pancakes, unfortunately they were not good. They were gummy and lacked the texture and taste of any potato pancake I've had before. Frank had the pea soup and Rueben and washed it down with their famous rootbeer. The Rueben was another strike. At least the pea soup and rootbeer were good and prices were very reasonable; only $19 for lunch.







We retired to the room and later returned to the Riverwalk for dinner at Boudro's. It's one of the few restaurants that is not a chain. The bistro is a real gem! We ate there twice. For dinner, we started with the tableside guacamole, then I had the duck three ways which ended up being two because they were out of spring rolls and subbed an enchilas, and Frank had the filet topped with chimichurri sauce. We also had to try the prickly pear margarita since it's what they are most famous for.









The guacamole was nothing special, but the rest of our dinner was exceptionally delicious ($111). I was hooked on the prickly pear margarita from the first sip. Our server was great too. She joked with us and explained that San Antonio has a motto like Austin. Instead, of keeping it weird like Austin, San Antonio keeps it lame. She had a sticker to show us and everything. We had been enjoying ourselves, but keeping it lame seemed awfully fitting.

We didn't care for the bumping music and overall vibe at most of the bars on the Riverwalk, however, we took a liking to Swig. It's martini bar that also has cigars, a few beers on tap and whiskey. We closed it down each night. The first night we had a sweet server that told us to check out the Friendly Spot so we made it a point to do so the following day.

The Friendly Spot Ice House is indeed awesome. It's a simple beer shack with over two hundred beers available, 25 are on draft. The majority of the seating is outdoors, they have patio seating with playset for the kiddos and picnic tables with TVs in back. Plus there is a small indoor area for inclement weather. It has such a relaxed feel, it's like you're at hanging out in a friend's yard. I'd love to own a place that has a similar concept. In addition to the beers, they serve food. We weren't terribly hungry, but it didn't stop us from scarfing the nachos down. I wish we found the friendly spot sooner, we weren't able to return, though, I would've loved to.





Earlier that day, we had taken the bus to The Luxury. It's a new restaurant that made from repurposed cargo containers. I had to experience it since Vegas will be getting its very own container park. I'm extremely excited over the concept. Unfortunately, The Luxury wasn't open yet. So, we walked up the river to Pearl Brewery to try a different culinary treat by Andrew Weissman, Il Sogno.













Il Sogno is an Osteria that brings a taste of Italy to San Antonio. The white bean mousse starter is divine. Give me a loaf of bread and this puree, I'd be as happy as a clam. But the deliciousness didn't end there, next we sampled three items from the antipasta bar: goat cheese and red pepper, eggplant dip, and potato salad. Then, we followed with cavatelli and gnocchi romana with pork ragu. The cavatelli was superb. The gnocchi romana was a surprise, we thought we'd be getting gnocchi, but this was more like polenta. It wasn't a bad dish, it was just different than anticipated. The pork was succulent, however. Our waiter brought us dessert on the house for the confusion. The tiramisu was light and creamy. During our meal, we enjoyed a lovely bottle of wine from Orvieto. I still insist Orvieto produces the best white wines. Lunch was a splurge at $110, but it was highly enjoyable.











Dinner that night was with friends. They picked us up at the hotel and took us to Perry's Steakhouse at La Cantera. It's a favorite of theirs and when I heard about their signature pork chop. I had to try it. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I don't often order a cocktail, but I was intrigued by the blueberry cucumber martini. I can see how it would be popular, but martinis just aren't my preference. We started with calamari, which had a nice heat from the peppers. I only wish it was more lightly breaded.



Next up was the wedge and French onion soup. The soup was the better choice. The salad was drenched with dressing and it was screaming for bite. Blue Cheese was terribly missed.





The entrees was where the meal shined. Frank had the stripsteak with peppercorn sauce. I had the monsterous chop. It's carved three ways to showcase the different cuts: ribs, loin and eyelash. Five days of the curing, smoking and roasting contribute to the smoky, caramelized flavor. The ribs were my favorite; so tender and juicy.





My chop came with a dessert trio: orange truffle, crème brulee and cheesecake. Typically, I do not like crème brulee but it was my favorite of the three.



Our server seemed overwhelmed. We dined on Mother's Day, I'm sure it was busy, but for a restaurant of this caliber, I'd expect service to be seamless. Dinner for two was $115.

The following day, we went to Las Canarias At La Mansion. Reviews speak highly of Sunday Brunch, so we figured they could master some pancakes which is what Frank was craving. Upon being seated we were told about the breakfast buffet available for $19. I'm not a big fan of steam trays so I really wanted to order from the menu, but Frank swayed me to get the buffet since it had chilaquiles (which is what I wanted to order), omelet station, sausage and bacon, pastries, fruit, waffles and pancakes were available from the kitchen. I reluctantly agreed. I had no complaints about the omelet, the pastries were stale, the fruit was not replenished and the chilaquiles were the saddest version I've ever seen. The whole idea of using a fried tortilla pieces is to add crisp texture. These chips were soaked through and it was utter mush. We ordered waffles and pancakes. They were dense and dry. On the brightside, I was turned on to Fage Yogurt with honey. Yes, I went to a Zagat-Rated Restaurant and ate store bought yogurt. I've grown tired of Vegas buffets, but I've completely taken them for granted. There is no comparison.

After breakfast, we walked over to La Villita. Monday late morning is not a prime time to visit. It looked like the setting for the Zombie Apocalypse, we only encountered one other person. One shop selling soaps was open. I'm sensitive to perfume scents so it figured it was one I would not frequent. We sat in the square and sought out a plan B.





I wasn't interested Texas Ranger Museum so Market Square it was. We walked over, and saw the San Antonio Court House and Cathedral of San Fernando on the way.





We went to La Margaritas and had ourselves a couple margaritas.



Frank had frozen pomegranate and I had the signature margaritas on the rocks. Twenty bucks later, we were ready to go. We much preferred the prickly pear margaritas so we returned to Boudro's. It also gave us an opportunity to try the duck spring rolls and Texas tapas. Lunch wasn't nearly as impressive as dinner. Portions were considerably smaller and a bit pricey ($54). Despite the hefty price, the spring rolls were a nice treat.





Our time in San Antonio had come to a close. San Antonio didn't steal our hearts, but we had a nice time. We feel like we saw and did everything we set out to do. I must say the hospitality in Texas is unlike anywhere else we've been. People are incredibly warm and friendly. La Antorcha de la Amistad might have been a gift to San Antonio from Mexico to unify countries, but the Torch of Friendship is fitting for the city of San Antonio.

Austin: Tacos, Beer and Bats

We weren't the only ones who thought about paying a visit to Austin, Texas. The President was also in town. Obama's presence killed our barbeque buzz, only the scent remained. Some may like the fragrance eau de toilette, but you could say we prefer eau de barbeque. We were giddy as can be until we were stuck in traffic. By the time we had arrived at our hotel - it took us longer to drive to Austin from Lockhart than it did to fly to San Antonio from Las Vegas - we were beat and napped at Extended Stay, our home for the night.

A couple hours later, we woke refreshed; we were still smelling like BBQ, and it must have worked up a appetite because there is no other reason we should be hungry. We set off for Torchy's Tacos. On the way, we were fortunate to see the emergence of the Mexican free-tailed bats at dusk from beneath the Congress Avenue bridge. The bridge spans the Colorado River. No, not that Colorado River. It is home to the largest urban bat colony, they are migratory and spend the summer in Austin. It is an amazing sight to see. I wish I would've captured a photo. A quick google image search will turn up photos of what we experienced. It's definitely not something you see everyday (well, outside of Austin).



Torchy's Tacos began in Austin as a food trailer. Today, it has several locations in Austin, Houston. Fort Worth and Dallas. We dined at the original, which funnily enough it is a trailer park. Frank and I were taken by it immediately. The food truck culture is strong in Austin. It's wonderful to see entrepreneurial spirit alive and well. We wanted to try a bit of everything, but settled on guacamole, and green chile pork, brushfire and kingpin tacos. We were given a number, and our food was brought over to us at the picnic table where we were seated. The guacomole had some kick, it was delicious.







The tacos were quite good, if San Diego wasn't a regular getaway these probably would've been among the best tacos I've had outside of Mexico. The green chile was your standard carnitas, but the tomatillo sauce was outstanding, with a fair amount of heat and not too much acidity. The brushfire had jerk chicken with mango, jalapeno and diablo sauce. The kingpin was a special with carnitas, plantains, black beans and avocado sauce.



We couldn't possibly eat anymore so we opted to find a bar to belly up to, The Ginger Man, was the perfect spot. They have a stellar beer selection. Plus, seating outdoors. When the rain stopped we went outside and watched the storms form above. Prices were pretty good, five bucks for Texas brews, other microbrews and imports were a buck or two more. I had Shiner Wild Hare and St Arnold Amber. We could have stayed longer but Frank was itching to check out a cigar bar that we had passed on the way called Halcyon.

We spent hours on the patio at Halcyon. I was drinking Real Ale Fireman’s #4, while Frank enjoyed Crown Royal on the rocks and a smoke. We had a killer lightning storm to keep us entertained. Storms are the one thing I miss from living in the midwest. Lightning makes this desert girl unbelievably happy. There were even some rumblings of thunder.

The rain kept us from walking around the city. I caught a couple snapshots while driving around before we hit the bars. The Capital Building is really beautiful and the Frost Bank Tower is interesting since it resembles an owl.





The following day, we had an early lunch at Habanero Mexican Cafe. We were seeking Tex Mex and supposedly it's the best. There was a wait, but tables turned over quickly. They have excellent salsa to get you started and we also had the chile con queso. It too was tasty. Then, we dug into Nachos Habanero and Fajita Ranchera, same as regular fajitas only with jalapenos. The beef fajitas were a bit tough, I didn't care for the corn tortillas, but aside from that is was a tasty lunch for $25. However, we'd likely call it quits with Tex Mex from here out.





After lunch, I wanted to go to Ladybird lake for a nice photo of the skyline. I must have kept bad notes because it did not offer a good photo opportunity.



We bailed on Ladybird Lake and drove up to Travis Lake. I had seen stunning photos of the Oasis and wanted some of my own. Little did I know that the Oasis is a lot like Lake Las Vegas. It was planned by someone with big dreams that were never fully fulfilled. The place was a ghost town. Two shops were open and one restaurant. The rest was shuttered. We stayed for signature margaritas; $19 later we were on our way.







We saw that we were near Mansfield Dam so we stopped to have a look since we have a mild facination with dams. The dam is on the Colorado River it is 278 feet high, 7,089 feet long, and 213 feet thick at the base.



From there we headed back to Lockhart via Austin. We had to get another fix of barbeque. With the lingering scent in the rental car, we couldn't have it any other way.





Our time in Austin was far too brief. Aside from Oasis, Austin is booming. I love to see a city thriving. Seeing all the cranes spread across the skyline reminded me a lot of Vegas a few years ago. I hope the future holds good things for the city of Austin. We'll be back! Keep on, keeping it weird.

Lockhart, TX: Meat Bliss

Earlier this month, we traveled to Texas. We flew into San Antonio, rented a car and drove up to Lockhart, The Barbecue Capital of Texas, before staying in Austin for the night. Lockhart is 25 miles southeast of Austin, it may be a small town of 12,000 but it's also where it's good to be carnivore. Central Texas was settled by German and Czech settlers in the mid 19th century, and they brought with them European-style meat markets. While the European settlers did not think of this meat as barbecue, the name stuck since it's what local farmers called it. BBQ here is rubbed with spices and smoked over indirect heat from pecan or oak wood. The heavenly scent of the meats smoking permeates the entire city of Lockhart. It is amazing!



Our first stop was Blacks Barbeque it's open 8 days a week and it was established in 1932. It is one of the oldest barbecue restaurants in Texas that has been continuously owned and operated by the same family. In past years, it's been named one of Texas' 50 best barbecue restaurants by Texas Monthly. When you walk inside you grab a plate and load up on sides from the steam table, then you approach the butcher. You name your meat and how much you want. Meats are sold by pound.



Oak is used here to indirectly smoke the meat, which is seasoned only with salt and pepper. Brisket made it's debut at Black's and it is excellent. We liked it best, along with the homemade jalapeno cheddar sausage. We sampled ribs which were delicious, but we later found we liked them better elsewhere. We sampled sides of potato salad, beans and deviled egg. Black's has homemade sauce to accompany the meat since the masses asked for it, but it's better without it. I found it a bit too acidic loaded with vinegar and lemon, maybe a hint of cumin.



The dining room is rustic as you might imagine. Though, dining here is somewhat fancy, with styrofoam plates, plasticware and paper towels on the table. Yes, I said fancy. I'll explain more later.





We also sampled the pecan cobbler with a side of blue bell ice cream. Blue Bell is sold in 22 states, mostly in the south, I never had it before. It is a delicious Texas treat. It's perfectly sweet and insanely creamy. After one bite is easy to understand why Blue Bell Homemade Vanilla is the best selling single flavor in the US. This stuff was made for cobbler too. It melts well and cuts the richness of the gooey sweet mess that pecan cobbler. After filling up on the salty meats, the sweetness is welcomed and much appreciated. It's the perfect end to a stellar BBQ meal.



Our next stop was Smitty's Market. The history here isn't quite clear, my understanding is that Smitty's and nearby Kreuz Market are all part of the same extended BBQ family. Although, Edgar A. "Smitty" Schmidt purchased the Kreuz Market from the Kreuz family in 1948; Smitty's Market opened it's doors in 1999 in the former Kruez Market location. Confused? Yeah, me too. Its past is local legend and from what I've gathered it sounds like some sort of family feud fueled the split. Whatever the case, meat lovers rejoice. Both are fine barbeque establishments. Smitty's has recently fallen off Texas Monthly’s Top 50 list, but had been named year after year.



Smitty's daughter and her family run Smitty's Market today. Her son is now pit master. Walking into Smitty's is life changing. Yes, I said it. Life changing. At least it was for this midwestern-turned-desert girl. Before we even approached Smitty's doors the scent of robust meats smoking filled the air. Walking through the doors, your eyes burn a little from the smoke. You wipe them and you notice the soot that has gathered on the walls from nearly 90 years of smoking meat to perfection - it's been a barbeque restaurant since it was built in 1924. As you walk back toward the pits, you feel the warmth of the open flames burning oak. Pits line the walls in this dark room, three employees stand at the center. The butcher cuts your meat at the greasy cutting block and two cashiers are available to weigh the meat and ring you up. Cash only. In exchange for cash you're handed your hefty meat butcher paper-wrapped package. They point you toward the dining room and you're on your own. Don't ask for a fork, they don't have 'em. Grab a handful of napkins and sit down. You're given a couple knives and you dig in with your hands. Soda and limited extras and a side of beans are available for sale. Blue Bell ice cream is also sold. Even without the cobbler it hits the spot.





On our first visit to Smitty's we had the trifecta of brisket, sausage and ribs. They gave us beef ribs and they were so insanely mouthwatering; we got four more. We stuffed ourselves silly on those ribs. The smoke was perfection, there was a caramelized glazed on top and the fat renders so beautifully when you bite into the flesh it juices like a peach. I've never experienced anything like it. We were high on BBQ and it was glorious. You can get bbq sauce from the counter and theirs is better than Black's. It's the same red-orange color but it has more spice and less acidity. You really don't need it, though. This meat is wondrous on its own. We returned the next day for more ribs, this time we had the pork. They too were out of this world delicious. They hold the smoke so well. They weren't nearly as juicy as the beef, but yet equally tender. Life changing, I tell you.



Our final stop on our Lockhart BBQ tour was Kreuz Market (pronounced 'Krites') is more popular with tourists because you can see the large barn from the highway. Kreuz Market got its start in 1900 as a meat market and grocery store. Charles Kreuz Sr. started smoking meats out of necessity because refrigeration was no good and he did not want to dispose of quality cuts that had not sold. Remaining lesser cuts were used to make sausage. Customers would buy their barbecue and sausage (which was wrapped in butcher paper) and they would eat it on the spot with their hands and a pocket knife. Sauce was never used. This tradition continues at Kreuz today. Edgar Schmidt, who had worked there since 1936, later purchased the market. He then sold it to his sons, Rick and Don Schmidt, in 1984. Fifteen years later, after Don retired, Rick was forced to move into a newer and bigger space a quarter mile north of the old location. Rick has since retired and his son Keith bought out the business. Kreuz Market just recently graced Texas Monthly’s Top 50 list.



The brisket here is a real winner. It is succulent and simply wonderful. We gobbled it up in a hurry. Outside of Lockhart, the ribs and sausage would be stellar. But we had dined at the three most popular BBQ restaurants and we had chosen our favorites. The winner is? All three. Because each one specializes in a slab of meat that puts them above the rest. At Kreuz its the brisket, it's leaner and more moist that Black's. Black's sausage is killer though. It has the best texture and flavor, and just the right amount of kick. And Smitty's Market has the ribs... Oh, those ribs.

Flaming Fajitas

A few months ago, Flaming Fajitas was only a month old, we stopped in for dinner while my sister and nephew were visiting. The five of us were eager to try the newest restaurant in the neighborhood. You'd think Las Vegas of all places would have great Mexican, and while it does have a couple gems, it really has a poor showing overall. However, Flaming Fajitas has brought some heat to the scene. I mean that quite literally.

I love spice. And Flaming Fajitas delivers. I love the plate of grilled onions and jalapenos that gets you started and the salsa is quite tasty. This is often the weak link when I dine out, but it fresh, bold and well balanced. The staff aims to please and they were more than willing to accomodate special requests made by our group. We were started with delicious fideo soup. Then, a short bit later, hot plates piled high with food swirled around us. I ordered the tacos al pastor. However, what was presented before me was not tacos al pastor. I don't know if the kitchen made an error or if they prepare them differently but these had no lingering flavor from chilies, nor a hint of pineapple. Whatever it was, it was decent, but fajitas is the name on the building and it's what you should get here.



My brother went with their signature Chicken Fajitas and there is quite the presentation; far more showy than any fajitas I've seen before. Usually you can hear them sizzling, but these are actually set on fire tableside.



The fajitas are excellent. So much so, I took Frank the following night we shared the steak and chicken fajitas for two. The chicken is far better than the steak. I noticed they also offer pork. I will try that next visit. I also prefer the corn to the flour tortillas. They have a great and reasonably priced beer selection to quench your thirst and come for happy hour to enjoy great specials.

Texas de Brazil

I've eaten at two Brazilian steakhouses on the strip and was terribly disappointed; I was skeptical of Texas de Brazil, but after so many praises our friend finally convinced us to give this churrascaria a try. I'm not often a fan of chains, but Texas de Brazil won us over.

The salad bar is a meal in itself. I love the Italian meats and cheeses. The couscous was excellent and a nice palatte cleanser. The asparagus provides a healthy dose of greens. Everything looked fresh and appetizing. I'll have to sample more items next visit.

At the table, the sides of mashed potatoes, fried bananas and cheesy bread bites are tasty as well. They help dull the saltiness once the meat parade begins.

We wasted no time and let the feast get underway. Since it was our first visit we sampled a bite of every offering. Once we found our favorites; we stuffed ourselves silly on lamb chops, leg of lamb, parmesan crusted pork loin and medium rare filet. All were the perfect temperature, well seasoned and tender.

If only I could travel with a second stomach! Instead, we had to call it quits before the meat sweats left us comatose. We are such gluttons, we chose the chocolate layer and carrot cake for dessert. Both were large portions easily shared; moist and delicious, but the chocolate layer cake was the better dessert. The dark chocolate layer is so decadent and it's the perfectly sweet end to the meatacular evening.

Dress in your fat pants and bask in gloriousness of being a carnivore.

Sorry, no photos of this dinner. I was too preoccupied with the meatfest.